Jean Descombes is produced by Georges Dubeouf
, often described as the King of Beaujolais, and also its most tireless ambassador. Having pioneered modern winemaking in the region and stoked the fires of the Beaujolais boom with unrivalled vigour, he refuses to rest on his laurels. Duboeuf still tastes hundreds of wines each day, and marshals his enormous range almost singlehandedly. Morgon is the second largest of the ten Beaujolais
Crus after Brouilly. and its wines, like those of Julienas
and Moulin A Vent
, tend to have a have a deeper flavour and more lasting power than some of the other Crus. Jean-Earnest Descombes was a much-loved character whose combination of winemaking skill and outgoing charisma did much to establish Morgon among the very top crus of Beaujolais. Since his death in 1993, the five-hectare estate has been run along traditional lines by his equally dynamic daughter, Nicole. Three quarters of Descombes’ vineyards are more than fifty years old, and are planted in three of the best regions. The soil is mainly schist with some clay. The harvest is done by the same team year after year, and a rigorous selection of grapes is carried out. The different parcels from the various plots are vinified separately at 28-32ºC, then blended and aged in tank before bottling.
Morgon Jean Descombes is one of the ‘senior’ Beaujolais crus, and this is suitably grand, with concentrated black cherry fruit and notes of kirsch, red fruits, floral and violets. Excellent structure and good length.